For Sale: YEC Yamaha Racing style ECU reflash for 2006-2013 R6 and 2007 to 2013 R1!!
Alright, I've had some people tell me they are worried about flashing their bike "what are the negative effects, what if something goes wrong??" Here is the answer:
If you are not 110% satisfied with the ECU flash I will restore your ECU to factory default settings for free AND REFUND YOUR $80! It doesn't get any better than that folks. I flash, you ride. Everything 110%? Then pay me. There are absolutely NO negative side effects, NONE. Your bike will do everything it does now, just 10x better! SERIOUSLY!
Now featuring more convenient meet up locations! For NO EXTRA CHARGE I'll meet you at the following locations and flash your bike, ON THE SPOT!
Every Tuesday, Mississauga. 7pm until 10pm. Burrito Boys. 9 Stevebank Rd, Port Credit.
Every Thursday, Toronto. 8pm until 11pm. Lakeshore and Leslie. At the Timmies/No Frills parking lot,
More info about the flash:
Works on: 2006 R6, 2007 R6, 2008 R6, 2009 R6, 2010 R6, 2011 R6, 2012 R6, 2013 R6 and 2007 R1, 2008 R1, 2009 R1, 2010 R1, 2011 R1 and now even the mind blowing 2012 and 2013 R1!!!.Works on Street bike OR track bike! Kicks serious BUTT on the street!!
Price: $80 for just the flash. If you already have a power commander (or Bazzaz) with map I can import that map into the ECU no charge, then you can sell your power commander.
Gains: On the dyno you'll see peak +4.5HP/+2.5TQ for 06/07 R6, +6HP/.4TQ (+10HP/+4TQ @ 15k RPM) for 08 to 11 R6, +14HP/+2TQ for 07/08 R1.
The most common question I get is "do I need a power commander to use this, what if I already have a power commander, etc.", here is the answer:
This does EVERYTHING a Power Commander can do, AND WAY MORE!
There is absolutely NO reason to use a power commander after the ECU is flashed. If you have one now you can remove it and sell it after the flash
Contact me: Text messages only 289-600-9937 or e-mail me through the Kijiji contact form!
I've had quite a bit of interest from people, but it seems people don't want to make the trip out to Whitby! lol. And they want to refrain from mailing in their ECU because then their bike would be shut down for a week or more. People have also expressed concern about how it'll work on THEIR bike, and worried about modifying their "only" ECU. So, I've come up with two solutions!!!
1. I can come to you, and flash your bike on the spot. I also have the factory ECU bins stored on my laptop, so if anything goes wrong with the flash, I can flash it back to the Yamaha factory setup! I guess how much extra I charge to do this depends on how far away you are. Send me a text/email with your location, what year/model bike you have, and ALL of your mods on the bike and I'll spit ya back a price!
2. ECU exchange service!!! I've sourced some spare ECU's (07 R6 ECU's that'll cover 06/07 R6, and some 08 R6 ECU's which will be a NICE upgrade for any 09+ R6 and will work on 08's too of course)!
How it'll work is you send me by paypal or EMT $380 ($80 for flash, $20 for shipping, $280 refundable core deposit) for 08+ R6/07-08R1 or $280 ($80 for flash, $20 for shipping, $180 refundable core deposit) for 06/07 R6. I will ship out your custom flashed ECU the same day I receive payment (if you pay me early enough, if not next day guaranteed). When you receive the new ECU plop it in your bike (just remove seat, two clips, swap swap, done!) and take it for a rip! If you're not completely happy simply stick the ECU I sent you back in the box it came in, take the freight pre-paid label and stick it on the box and drop it off at the nearest post office, once I receive the ECU back I will give you a COMPLETE REFUND (minus the $20 for shipping)! Worst case it's only cost you $20 to try it out!!!
If you ARE completely satisfied simply stick your stock ECU back in the box the flashed one came in, stick the freight pre-paid label on the box and drop it off at the nearest post office! Once I've received your ECU and verified it's in good condition and proper working order I'll refund the core charge ($280 back for 08+R6/07-08R1 or $180 back for 06/07 R6).
Because of the limited number of ECU's I've been able to obtain you MUST ship your ECU (or the flashed one) back to me NO LATER THAN 5 DAYS AFTER YOU'VE RECEIVED MY ECU! Otherwise I keep your $280/$180 to purchase replacement ECU's
I think this is a really great option for someone who wants to try it on their bike, verify everything works peachy and it's what they want, before modifying anything on their bike!!!
If there's anything else you can think of to make this easier for you, please just let me know!
What the flash does:
NO MORE BOUNCY IDLE! Check out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwN3MynDb44
Have you EVER seen such a smooth/consistent idle on an R6? Didn't think so!!
#1. Unlocks the "rider safety" limiters in the ECU (YCC-T Throttle Restriction). Did you know that the R6 restricts you to 60% throttle under 10000rpm even if you've got the throttle wide open!!?! and under 9000rpm at 80% throttle it only gives 60% as well? It doesn't matter how far you twist it, you're only getting 60% throttle up to 10k RPM! INSANE! Removes the limiters so how far you twist the grip = how much throttle the bike will give you.
#2. Dual Maps - Fuel Economy/Performance. It loads in two maps, a super fuel saving map that is in use when ever you are under 30% throttle. As soon as you hit 30% throttle or over it instantly enables "performance" mode/map and throws fuel economy out the window in favour of all out power No physical map switch required, all done automatically.
#3. Ignition Timing/Advance - Allows you to increase the ignition timing for even MORE power. +4 degrees is super safe on 91 pump gas. REALLY boosts the power down low, cause we all know R6's suck donkey balls down low.
#4. Raise Rev Limiter - With the flash you can make usable power for another 500RPM, a stock 08+ R6 starts to lose massive power over 13000RPM (rev limit 16000) but after the flash makes monster power (+10HP over stock) right to 16500RPM.
#5. Raise the idle. No other way to do it properly on 06+ R6. Provides better charging at idle and much smoother idle, no more bounce. Raising from 1250RPM to only 1400RPM makes a huge difference
#6. Adjust cooling fan kick on/off ranges. Tired of the bike absolutely cooking you in the summer? Have the fans come on sooner (96 degrees instead of 102), keeps the bike and you cooler.
#7. Disable "Canadian" immobilizer. Get extra keys cut for your bike for $8!! Lost your keys? No problem, wire up hidden toggle switch to start the bike!
Due to popular demand I'm also now able to make you brand new Yamaha OEM keys for your bike. I can either duplicate an existing key, or create a brand new perfect one from scratch for your bike. Will work just like the original key for the bike! No need to change the ignition, gas cap, trunk latch, etc!!! :)
#8. ECU based Quick Shifter! Use any Power Commander style quick shifter hardware directly with the ECU, no power commander required! To make the power commander do it PROPERLY you'd need the Power Commander PLUS the Ignition module (so it'd cut all 8 fuel injectors). ECU quick shifting is way better, it's PER GEAR with adjustable delay for each gear, minimum RPM activation, etc!!!
#9. Disable EXUP code so you can rip out your EXUP servo control motor and associated cables, and it'll prevent/get rid of the service engine light for it on the dash!
It also allows you to reduce the engine braking (track guys LOVE this), import power commander maps, remove the top speed limiter (on R1 only I think?), adjust variable intake stack YCC-I control by RPM, disable O2 sensor, etc.
Q. Will this work on a bone stock bike? A. Absolutely! If you want the MOST power, it's best if you remove the catalytic converter. Best done with an: M4 mid pipe: http://www.biohazardcycles.com/servlet/the-5208/M4-YA-dsh-MBEKR606-CAT-ELIMINATOR/Detail or MJS Headers: http://shop.mjsperformance.com/product.sc?productId=4&categoryId=3 or of course a Full exhaust system: http://www.bluestreakracing.ca/en/bluestreakracing_motorcycle_accessories/motorcycle_exhausts/yoshimura/yoshimura_yamaha/yoshimura_r6/192792syzfr6.html
You can run the stock muffler with the M4 mid pipe or the MJS headers and it'll work fine, but it'll sound pretty crappy . Any slip-on designed for the 06-11 R6 will fit on the M4 mid pipe or MJS headers. Also recommended to install: Smog Block Off Plates: http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108635 , and rip out all the smog stuff, AIS pump, hoses, etc. The smog plates will stop pop and gurgle on deceleration (doesn't hurt the bike at all if you don't install them).
Q. Do I need a power commander? A. No. The ECU flash does everything the power commander can do, and then some!
Q. What if I already have a power commander? A. If you've had it custom tuned we can pull the map from it and flash it into your ECU and then you can remove the power commander and sell it. Or, if it's the PCV you could get the: Power commander AutoTune: http://www.bluestreakracing.ca/en/manufacturers/dynojet_power_commander/dynojet/c378143027/dynojet_autotune.html for $200 for it, and it'll "AutoTune" your bike as you drive around normally! Works great if you've ditched the cat and have a BMC race filter, etc. If you already have the quick shifter it'll wire right into the ECU.
Q. Does anything get installed on my bike, any wires cut, etc? A. No. The ECU flash is done using identical plugs to your bikes factory wiring, unplug your ECU, plug in flash connector, flash, plug ECU back in, done. I keep the flash hardware.
Q. If I change my stock air filter to a K&N after the flash, do I need to get it re-tuned, etc? A. Don't use K&N. If you're not going to run factory get a BMC filter. An aftermarket air filter makes very little difference in the tune when you're not running on the ragged edge of lean like the stock computer is! If you changed your exhaust system (from say just a mid pipe to a full system) you might need a re-tune, same if you dropped some cams in, etc. I can make you a deal on the re-tune if you need it in the future.
Q. Do I have to send you my ECU out of my bike, if not how do you flash it? A. You can ship me the ECU out of your bike (takes 30 seconds to remove from bike, it just clips in, under the riders seat, please include an extra $20 for return shipping including insurance), or bring me the ECU (I'm in Whitby) out of your bike and I can flash it while you wait, or bring me your entire bike! If you want me to custom tune your idle I need the whole bike. If you bring me/ship me just the ECU your idle will be about 1750RPM when you put it back in the bike. See above for the ECU exchange service!!
Q. Will this work on my track bike? A. If you're currently running the stock ECU, then absolutely. We can make a special map for running U4.4, MR12, etc. +6 degree ignition advance works really sweet on race fuel. We can dial out as much engine braking as you want, and also up the idle RPM to whatever you'd like.
Any questions feel free to send me a text message at 289-600-9937 or e-mail me through the Kijiji contact form.
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